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Before Adam Scott came to the Champaign-Urbana area, he went to film school and worked on such memorable projects as Super Sucker, 13 Conversations About One Thing, and Strangers with Candy. He grew up in California and currently teaches English at Parkland College. He is working on a novel about the 1000th suicide off the Golden Gate Bridge.
There’s very little about Papa George, the restaurant that was until recently Pickles on Neil Street, that says “Greek.” In fact, the exterior screams bland American cuisine (a la Pickles), but the fact that the seldom-busy parking lot was overflowing last Friday night attests to how popular this restaurant has become and how, after a rocky start, the food has greatly improved.
The problem of authenticity arises again when entering and seeing essentially Pickles, with a few minor changes — a strip of wall near the ceiling has been painted Mediterranean blue and the tables now have textured blue candleholders. So it’s almost unavoidable to ask: Must a Greek restaurant have white-washed walls and be adorned with Corinthian columns and tchochkes from the old country for the food to be tasty and authentic? In the case of Papa George, the answer is no.
Each meal at Papa George comes with almost over-friendly service and a basket of warm bread. The bread wasn’t terribly memorable, but the olive tapenade — an intensely flavorful spread made primarily with Kalamata olives, which accompanied the bread — was. For appetizers (mezedes), the best value is to pick three or even five options (depending on the size of your group). The calamari was crisp and lemony, the hummus thick with a subtle garlic flavor, the grilled pita smoky, the dolmas (grape leaves stuffed with rice) surprisingly light. For greater entertainment value, order the saganaki, Greek cheese sautéed in brandy right at your tableside. The flames and the waiters yelling “Opa!” surely would never have been found at Pickles and, thus, given the décor, the effect is comical.
There are a wide variety of entrees, all of which come with a choice of two sides, either Greek or American. The grilled meats are all exceptional and reasonably priced: mahi mahi for $13; rib eye for $10 locally-raised lamb for $12. The American sides are good for what they are, but nothing better than what you’d find at a dozen restaurants on North Prospect. Opt instead for the Greek sides, one starch (grilled potatoes or rice pilaf) and one juicy (the gigantes, or giant white beans in a tomato dill sauce, were particularly rich) as it’s easy to feel like the food needs more liquid than the requisite lemon slice can provide.
The specials are scribbled on the chalkboard up front, so pay attention as you walk in. Last Friday pints of Samuel Adams were $2 and the 7 oz. prime rib meal was only $10. If you’re smart about how you order, you can come away with a pretty fantastic Greek meal for under $20. If you find you need a more “authentic” Greek atmosphere, you’ll still have to go to Greektown in Chicago or wait until Papa George decides to renovate, which, given the present state of the interior, would have to be pretty major undertaking.
Papa George Restaurant and Bar
505 South Neil Street (between Healey and Green) in Champaign
Phone: 217.356.1930
Comments (6)
Friday, February 15, 2008 3:27 PM
We had the same experience with a Pickles-coated Papa George last fall when we first went there, and they still had primarily Pickles staff. My wife asked if they had falafel, and the waiter got a very confused look on his face, and asked what that was. (Yes, I know falafel isn't very greek, but it isn't very exotic either)
A few minutes later, the owner floated out and explained that they were trying to walk a fine line between old Pickles customers and new Greek customers. That seemed like an impossible task, so I'm glad they are now unapologetically Greek.
Also, they now have a lot of good vegetarian options, so my wife doesn't have to ask for falafel.
Friday, February 15, 2008 4:10 PM
I love Papa George. They have some of my favorites there that you can't get anywhere else in Champaign:
• souvlaki skewers (both pork & chicken)
• lamb meatballs
• Greek meatball sub
I also love their red roasted pepper soup. And yes, some good veggie dishes too. Have you tried the hummus sandwich?
Definitely try Papa George.
Saturday, February 16, 2008 6:02 PM
Actually they've done quite a bit to the inside of Papa George. It is the same basic architecture and structure as Pickles, but the decor is definitely different.
The walls are no longer that disgusting grey Pickles wallpaper, but have been painted gold. And as you noted, the top section of the walls are bright blue.
All the old hodgepodge photos of famous pop culture icons are gone from the walls and Greek photos have replaced them.
The tables are now covered with white table linens and tissue paper. Blue napkins have replaced the old dingy Pickles white ones. And, as you noticed, blue candles have been added to every table.
Also, Greek music is now played, which changes considerably the "aural decor" of the place.
I don't see or hear much that reminds of Pickles anymore.
Sunday, February 17, 2008 2:44 PM
Joe, I appreciate hearing about some of the details I missed in my review. Some of the additions may not be consistent though; when I went there wasn't Greek music playing, nor were there blue napkins. Either way, the space itself--the basic architecture, the carpet, the green booths, the hanging lamps--still leaves much to desire in terms of what we expect from an "authentic" Greek restaurant. But then again, does any of it really matter if the food is great?
Sunday, February 17, 2008 4:05 PM
Adam raises a fantastic culinary question? Do intangibles like decor, music, staff presentation affect the way that we eat?
My answer is, invariably, yes.
I am biased towards Papa George as I am friends with the owners (though Adam Scott had no idea as we hardly know each other). I love their food and an authentic Greek restaurant opwning in Champaign practically saved my relationship, as my fiancee, being Greek, complained to no end that living in Champaign was fucking with her heritage being so far from greek dolmades for sale at a restaurant.
So - yes - I am a huge Papa George fan. And I agree - the decor could improve greatly. I wish they could change the neon streaks outside to blue and white. I wish they could darken it up a bit more. I wish that I had never walked into Pickles or ate their nachos, as I am having a hard time getting that out ofmy mind when I dine there.
But knowing the owners - I am sure they want all those things as well. Money is an obstacle - like with most upstarts - so I would rather them put their funds into the best possible ground lamb rather than their napkins at this point.
If we give it good patronage, it could be a Champaign tradition for years to come!
Opa! Or whatever...
Monday, February 18, 2008 5:37 PM
The review leaves out a major reason to enjoy eating at P-George's. The lamb and pork is locally and organically produced, and is extra tasty as a result!