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Learning the art of Charcuterie

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Laurence Mate, known by some as “Larbo,“ knows a lot about meat. He writes a blog, sharing his thoughts on meat and food politics, titled “This Little Piggy”. I visited him recently to learn more about him, his charcuterie, and his ideas about food. He had a lot to say, and his passion for the subject is infectious.

Charcuterie is a class of meat preparations including such delicious items as sausage, pate, and various cured, smoked, and fermented meats. These techniques have been around for centuries, used to preserve and improve meat before the days of refrigeration. In different preparations, salting, fermenting, dehydrating, or cooking creates a product that has a longer shelf-life and a different, often more intense, flavor.“

“Larbo” has a love for food that is appreciated simply by hearing him talk about where he gets his raw materials.  He doesn’t use supermarket meat—it’s been years since he bought any.  The meat he uses is raised, butchered, and aged how he wants it.  He has been able to do this by developing strong relationships with local farmers, like Triple S Farms and Joy of Illinois.  All this, he says, is to ensure that he’s starting with the best possible raw materials.  The meat for the sausage he was making when I visited came from what he refers to as his “Sacred Bull.“

Laurence has been practicing the art of making charcuterie for years. A look at his bookshelf reveals that he’s done a lot of homework getting to the point he’s at. His #1 book recommendation is Charcuterie by Michael Ruhlman and Brian Polcyn, though he has shelves full of other gems that he references from time to time. His books range from large textbooks about garde manger (the kitchen position responsible for producing charcuterie), to small volumes with obscure sausage recipes.

Laurence had one of these little books out, as he was going to be making some Moscow sausage while I was there. When I got there, he was already cutting up the meat and fat in preparation for grinding. Meat is, after all, the cornerstone of good charcuterie. This meat was special, from a bull he had processed specially for his purposes (most beef comes from cows). He took it to his grinder, from a used restaurant equipment supplier on eBay. It was old, but sturdy. It could handle what the stand mixer meat grinder attachment couldn’t.

With the fat and meat ground (separately) to the recipe’s specifications, he mixed the meat with the salt/spice/culture mix he made earlier in an ancient counter-top Hobart stand mixer. He explained that this is, of course, to mix the meat and fat evenly, but also to develop the proteins (myosin) in the meat that make the mixture stick together. Once mixed, the sausage was packed into the sausage stuffer he uses. It’s a large piston-style stuffer with a hand crank. He loaded on the beef middles, tied the end, and created a long meat tube. He twisted and tied it into large links. The sausage was then ready to ferment according to the recipe.

 

During the whole process, Laurence shared many stories of previous projects, including his first sausage which was a failure. He’s learned how to do lots of different things over the years, spanning the entire range of charcuterie methods. One of the things I got to try during my visit was one of his pleasant surprises, a pork liver pate made with a different technique than his usual recipe. It was creamy and delicate, with lots of deep, porky flavor. It was a great example how though Laurence is a skilled craftsman, he’s still trying and discovering new things.

Laurence Mate does produce a lot of sausage, bacon, and other charcuterie, but he does not sell to the public.  Much of it goes to family and friends, but you may be able to arrange to taste some of his products.  Contact information is available on his website, This Little Piggy.  Photos from my visit, more than just the ones in the article, are on Flickr.

11 comments

username

av509

#1

“There are no to finer words in the english language than “encased meats” my friend.“

username

Suzanne

#2

Here is a link to Laurence’s blog.  His writing is at least as good as his food.  http://www.thislittlepiggy.us/

Seth Fein avatar featured_post

Seth Fein

#3

Sorry for the delay on links, folks! Article now formatted in the way it was intended to be presented!
 
Have a great 4th!

username

Joyless In Illinois

#4

Stan Schute and his family do a fine job with Triple S. They produce some outstanding cottage bacon and sausage. However, I have great reservations about the fact that Joy of Illinois has sold roosters for fighting and admitted as much in a national poultry journal. If you are selling animals for torture, how can you care enough to do a quality job with the rest of your herds and flocks?

username

Laurence Mate

#5

As someone who has known and bought food for my family from the Giojas of the Joy of Illinois farm for the past decade, I don’t believe that there is any truth to this accusation that they are knowingly selling roosters for cockfighting.  I have heard that this accusation was made in the past by a vindictive individual, looking to create trouble for them, and they vehemently denied it.  If, as Joyless claims, they “admitted as much in a national poultry journal,“ then quote the journal, cite the source, and link to the full text so everyone can judge for themselves.
It’s very sad to see this kind of unsupported accusation and character assasination by anonymous commenters.  The web can be a great way to disseminate opinions, to express dissent, to get information out there, but, unfortunately, it also allows for irresponsible accusations like this to circulate, gain currency, and do a great deal of harm.

username

Joyless In Illinois

#6

Cull Hens and Mean Roosters Spell Big Business, by Penny Gioja, Joy of Illinois Farm in American Pastured Poultry Producers Association Issue #49, page 25
“We have a new and wonderful market (for us) that has grown out of the influx of Mexican and Guatemalan people settling in our area of central Illinois.“
“In fact, demand is so strong that we occasionally go to the auction barn an hour away to stock up on old hens and roosters to keep the hungry eyes off our laying flock.“
“Different groups like different types of bird: A family with a pregnant mother wants a fat old hen, while a carful of unattached males wants big roosters.“
Exactly what does she think that the boys are going to do with the roosters, make abuela’s arroz con pollo?
Anyone who wants a copy can get it from APPPA, www.apppa.org. BTW, Julia Rietz’s office also has a copy. But until county animal control can bust a cock fight in progress and get those involved to cough up who supplied the birds (both very unlikely), the Giojas and people like them can continue to sell animals for torture and claim ignorance.

username

Les Gioja

#7

Is it worth my time to rebut a vindictive person who hides behind anonymous slanders and hideous misrepresentations?  Her singular purpose in life has been to try to bring down anyone and everyone she has ever decided to dislike. Guess the buck stops here.
It certainly is not worth your time to listen to her.  If you want to know about the article, I could try to find it and post it for all to read. It was an article in the Poultry Press, pursuading people to think about where to sell their birds other than the sale barn - where you don’t make much money.  In the article, my wife told about one hispanic, and two Guatemalan communities, that frequent our farm to buy chicken - the bigger and fatter the better. Only certain breeds of chickens work as fighters, and we do not raise or sell them.
To assume that all hispanics who buy chickens are involved in cock fighting seems a bit racist to me. Especially when you see the smiling moms carefully holding each one and judging which is heaviest.  When the families come, it is like a holiday.  They like to play with the kittens and see the other animals we have.
Wonder what they do with the goats they buy? Razor blades on the horns, maybe? lol
Joyless called the Sheriff on us after the article came out.  The embarassed deputy, with article in hand, came out to look and apologized for the whole incident.  Feel free to contact the Champaign County Sheriff’s office and ask them about it, though it was a couple of years ago now.
Or ask the Poultry Press, since they published the article:
http://www.poultrypress.com/articles/poultrypress.gif
<span style=“font-family: ‘Times New Roman’; color: #000080; font-size: large;“>PO Box 542 Connersville, Indiana 47331-0542</span><span style=“font-family: ‘Times New Roman’; font-size: medium;“>Phone 1-765-827-0932  Fax 1-765-827-4186</span>
<span style=“font-family: ‘Times New Roman’; font-size: medium;“>
</span>
Or - of course, why not judge for yourselves?  You could contact us - just search for Joy of Illinois Farm. You will find us listed in a number of places, and featured in a number of books and articles.
Arrange to come out to see for yourself.  One of the things we emphasize to all our customers, is that they can see what they are buying.  Maybe you will like what you see enough to try one for yourself, because tasting the sweetness of fresh chicken is truly rewarding.
P.S. Laurence is a great guy and a good cook. (Or is it the other way around?)

username

Les Gioja

#8

Am I the only one who knows that fighting cocks are small and that eating cocks are BIG?
The Hispanic people seem to think that female chickens produce female hormones, which help with female problems.  And that male chicken produce male hormones which help with - guess what?
That is what they do with those BIG roosters.
P.S. It was so long ago, that I forgot this particular artivcle was in the APPA, not the Poultry Press.

username

Laurence Mate

#9

First, I’ll echo what Les Gioja says: anyone who leaps to the assumption that a hispanic man looking for a rooster can only be engaged in cockfighting seems to be guilty of something  worse than what he/she accuses the Giojas of.
 
Second, if Joyless was concerned that some of these roosters might be used for cockfighting, did he/she contact the Giojas to share those concerns and/or solicit more information?  Or did he/she go straight to the State’s Attorney and the Sheriff’s office?  If the latter, then it does seem less like a genuine concern for animal welfare and more like a personal vendetta against the Giojas.
 
Again, it’s very sad to see local producers who work very hard to raise some good food for the local market and for their own families (for very little financial reward!) have to endure this  kind of anonymous and baseless attack on their farm and their character.

username

Joyless In Illinois

#10

APPPA Issue #49 was published last year.
Somehow, I doubt a carload of “unattached males” is buying a big rooster to collectively solve an E.D. issue.
Fighting birds are matched by size and weight, though sometimes an aggressive smaller bird will be allowed to fight a larger bird.
BTW, it is worth noting that Bedford Virginia police were able to catch someone selling roosters for fighting in a sting last month www.wset.com/news/stories/0609/634326.html  Perhaps next time the Champaign Co. sheriff’s department will expend a bit more effort.

username

penny gioja

#11

Considering that the families and singles who come to the farm go home with epazote, peppers, tomatoes, cilantro, kale, cabbage, onions, and whatever else is ready in the garden, WHAT DO YOU THINK THEY ARE GOING TO DO WITH THE CHICKENS???? A fresh, non-industrial chicken is a big treat, just as it was in the U.S. in the 30’s—remember Herbert Hoover’s campaign promise of a chicken in every pot? (I believe that was just on Sunday—it was potatoes and beans the rest of the week)
  The roosters we sell are VERY gentle and usually just not needed in the show string or laying flock. They are mostly Rhode Island Reds, White Rocks, Black Australorps, Ameracuanas or crossbreds of these. The APPPA Grit editor made up the article’s title, by the way.
  When the sheriff’s deputy came to our home, I laughed because the accusation was so outlandish. That the roosters were going for cockfights had never occurred to me! They become dinner.  This accusation is racial profiling.
  We no longer go to the sale barn—time and effort are too much, and that energy now that I’m an old grandma is needed at home!  However, several BIG buyers from Chicago buy truckfuls of roosters there—what on earth do they do with them???
  Why and what Joyless is so offended about that she would go to these lengths is not clear to me. How sad to be this unhappy person.
  Bendiciones!


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